(Airdate: November 5, 2024) After a trip to the Tibetan center of Labrang, we’re back in Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu Province. Lanzhou has never been renowned for its beauty, and it’s sliding fast toward the ugly end of the scale. Still, there are a few places worth visiting while we await the next bus out of town—Five Spring Mountain Park, and across the Yellow River, the White Pagoda, both full of history and legend.